Switzerland - Italy: July 14th - August 19th 2003
 

The flag of Zurich

The flag of Tuscany

Click here for Newspaper Articles covering this trip.
 

The Horse Trekking to Tuscany was intended to train my mare Shyenne to manage also longer Trekkings. We did a lot of shorter trekkings over weekends and holidays. The whole distance of this trekking was about 750 km and we needed 37 days. I learnt a lot about Italian culture and the language. It was a much harder Trekking than the one in Canada 1998 as Europe is much more populated and there is less understanding for traveling with a horse. Also the trails (especially in the mountains) are more difficult, as they are built for human use.

Those 37 days actually were amongst the hardest I ever had and my professor at University used to say “you learn the most under the highest possible stress”. True enough: I did learn a lot and more than I thought when I arrived at Castagneto. There were lectures for a lifetime and the begin of a very special and intense friendship. Shyenne always tried her best even in the most difficult situations and she sure is a horse that can take a lot - and then some more. And Shyenne is a horse that can give a lot - and then some more.

July 14th 2003: Departure from Riet

The very first day was already loaded with adventures: we had to cross a river (what we never did before) - and as it was so hot she wanted to lay down but finally she did really fine. The next exciting part was a very narrow stone path with a wall on the one side and the River Töss on the other. Her packs touched the wall what confused her and she started running and as I was walking in front of her she pushed me forwards. As I didn’t know how nervous she was I decided to jump into the river. Without me it was no fun - so she stopped and looked puzzled around.

The second day we set over the Lake of Zurich using the Ferry “Meilen - Horgen” and walked all over the hills down to Shilbrugg and further to Höll where we spent the night. The Restaurant at Höll had excellent meals and I could organise a pasture and some hay for Shyenne. Höll is very famous for its caves. We followed the River Lorze to the Lake of Aegeri. Over a next hill (Sattel) we finally reached Steinen (near Schwyz). From there to Andermatt we took a trailer: on our way to the San Gottardo we had to avoid another main road with high traffic (Achsenstrasse) that is impossible to manage with a horse. The main problems we had throughout our journey were the ones of civilization!

From Andermatt, where I met a friend, we walked in a single day over the San Gottardo down to Airolo! The foggy hiking path with its distinctive light was beautiful and on the top there were even some sun rays! During the week there was almost no traffic on the old stone road (Tremola) to Airolo where Shyenne had a nice pasture and some good grain. On the “Strada Bassa” we went on and the hike to Faido was one of the most difficult: the hiking path was really not suitable for horses and the main roads even less!
We reached Faido (Piumogna Ranch) at our fifth day on the road! When I took off the saddle I remarked a small swelling on her back... It was impossible to saddle her up again and the next morning I bought a backpack for myself. The Ranch had nice stables and was very helpful: I could leave all the tack there. The rest of the day we spent shopping, bathing and eating!

From Faido we started with new energy. For the next days I carried all the luggage and she just walked beside us. I didn’t took her long to fall in love with backpacks - especially with the one of my friend where all the food was...! Sometimes we even had to tie her up somewhere just to be able to eat. Usually I set her free for grazing - she loves so much eating that I never had to be afraid that she would run away! But whenever we made a rest she bothered us until she got something to eat!

It was again a long and hot day hike to Cresciano. Some parts were on hiking trails and some were on main roads - but it was Sunday and there was not much traffic: plenty of time to enjoy the beautiful landscape.

With blisters all over my feet Shyenne and I followed the next day the River Ticino to the Piano di Magadino where we stayed at “La Monda” near Contone. Around Bellinzona there was quite some industry but the hiking trail was nice and flat. The next day I had to organize a trailer to cross the boarder. The people of “La Monda” were very helpful! The next morning Shyenne was loaded and we passed the boarder to Italy!

Crossed the boarder to Italy

Near Como I had to wait a couple of days for my other saddle and it was a welcomed break for my feet. I went for some very short trail rides without a saddle to take care of Shyenne’s back and the rest of the days I spent studying Italian words. In the beginning it was so hard to speak but most people were very patient, corrected me or thought me a new word.

On the maps there were lots and lots of roads around Milano - but nothing seemed convenient for a horse. I talked to different people and nobody seemed to know a hidden path around the city. I decided to organize another trailer to a village in the south of Milano: Torre Pallavicina.

The beautiful Riding Stable of Torre Pallavicina was just beside an old castle (right) with a nice garden, a pond with ducks and a swimming pool. While Shyenne had a heap of good hay I went for some swimming and sunbathing - the most relaxing afternoon of my whole journey!

In the evening a young man appeared out of nowhere and invited me for dinner in an awesome restaurant nearby with a georgeous view over Lombardian corn fields. Now I really could practice my Italian and I even got most of the local history he told me. For example that the first book press of Italia was in Soncino - just 10 km away.

The castle Pallavicina was built in the 15th century while the Torre is from the 14th century. Today it is mainly used for marriages and sometimes as a background for movies.

The information about the paths along the River Oglio were excellent. Family and friends told me about the warnings of the newspapers in Switzerland that there was no water in the “Pianura del Po” and that it may is critical to find enough drinking water. Therefore I was quite surprised when I realized that there is water - obviously less than normal but enough to be confronted with the problem of convincing Shyenne that she can swim! It was a beautiful day following the small pathes through the dense wood along the river. There were abundant birds and the never quiet silence of nature was just broken by Shyenne’s walking...!

While travelling through the “Pianura del Po” I realized that there is an unwritten rule: all rivers and canals which were on the 1:200’000 map had for sure a small path on at least one side. There it was gorgeous to travel with a horse. The bridges though were not always made for horses (some are missing now :-) but it never was a problem to find a possible way! I started early in the mornings and usually I could watch the sunrise over a river or canal...

Also along the River Po is such a path on which we finally reached the bridge crossing the Po from Viadana to Santa Croce. The bridge is 3 km long and 2 km I was running like hell: there was - on a Sunday - one of those big trucks behind us of which Shyenne is so afraid of...
It was over 40 °C!

Sentiero Matilda

The next week we followed along the “Way of Mathilda”, a beautiful hiking path through the Apenin. From Salvarano over Canossa to Carpineti (Castello delle Carpinete and further to Cavola.

There Shyenne got new shoes and the next day I rode with some other guys to Febbio a town further south in the Apenin where the mountains are higher (around 2000 alt). This was a relaxing ride as for once I didn’t had to look for the way! The scenery was georgous and we passed the famous “Pietra di Bismantova” - a very distinct and impressive looking rock

From Febbio I went with some other guys to the “Refugio Abetina” where we had excellent lunch somewhere in the middle of the mountains. My way went on to San Geminiano and after a really nice morning the sky suddenly began to darken... I was prepared for rain, for cold - but not for a hail storm! Shyenne watched the hail jumping on the ground - another new experience for her!

At San Geminiano my father came visiting me for two days. While Shyenne was sleeping and eating at the English Riding Stable of San Geminiano, we slept in the pitoresque village of Piandelagotti.

During the last couple of weeks some things broke, on others I simply run out and there were some I just forgot. The most important thing was the replacement of my Monty Roberts Halter as I used it both for leading and riding her! Among the things I forgot were Minerals for Shyenne and she was very happy about it.

The next day my father and I drove with the car to Barga to organize a Stable and Hotel - for the first and last time on the whole trip that I knew where we would stay the next night!

It was seven o’clock in the morning when we arrived at the “Passo delle Radici” and passed the province boarder to Tuscany! In the Restaurant we had a coffee to celebrate it.

Just after the “Passo delle Radici” the “Sentiero Matilda” ended and our way went on: downhill to Barga!
This was a very nice road through the high mountains of the Apenin with georgeous views and splendid spots to take a break. The yellowish grass gave a very distinct color to the beautiful landscape.

It was just an ideal part of the trail to show my father the scenery. He visited us for that day and we transported the lagguage in the car. It was very relaxing not to care about the packs for a day!

Whenever we made a break all Shyenne could think about was eating. And of course she always had to check out if the things I ate were possibly better than the gras she could find... and in some cases she decided that my food was better: poor me!

To avoid the main road we took a small hiking path down to Barga. It was quite demanding but the beautiful chestnut wood made everything all right!
Almost at the end of the most difficult part she suddenly stood still - and obviously wasn’t thinking about eating. I watched her... falling asleep. Well, I sat down and told my father that we will have a break for some 15 minutes. He sat down - and fell asleep! While he was snoring beyond me Shyenne slept above me: her lip was shaking sweetly, her eyes were closed and the ears stood somehow queer to her head...

On the further way down I saw the fourth snake of my trip! As I’m terribly afraid of snakes I stood still and watched her disappearing in the woods.

After about 40 km we saw the first house and we were lucky enough that just nearby was a bar!

During the Trekking Shyenne started to love IceTea and so I ordered some. Diluted with some warm water she really enjoyed it! But usually it was not that comfortable and we just had a bottle. After the first few disasters I learnt her to drink out of a bottle!

Also on the last part of the main road to Barga I needed that important “pezzo di legno” (stick of wood) to keep the cars at a distance! To be on main roads south of the Alps was always a headache...!

Barga is a really nice old town. It was the first place throughout my trip that we arrived at a town with substantial foreign tourism.

The last days

From Barga there is a valley down to Lucca and further to Pisa. A valley with main roads and highways but once more: no hiking paths! I did make my experience with crossing railroads and highways further north: the subways were in reality never where they were on the map. One could be more or less lucky to be accidentaly nearby a bridge or subway that was possible to cross with a horse. The good thing about subways was that the trucks didn’t see us. If they did see us they horned: and believe me: we were visible to more than one truck...! Shyenne didn’t react too much to such a noise... but if there was additionaly a tractor behind us things started to become a little more complicated...! So I organized a last trailer from Barga to Selvatelle, a village just south of Pisa. From there my last three days through the lovely hills of Tuscany started!

A typical junction... on the map of course it’s just a single path. That time I was lucky: there were hunters who knew the area. A lot of other times we took one way just to find us in a dead end or to end up in a completely wrong direction...!

Things like this learnt me that it is simply necessary to make decisions. It can be wrong - but even then it’s better than waiting forever or turn around!

From Selvatelle to Lajatico we were for quite a part on the main road. But it was Sunday and therefore there were hardly any cars. The roads here seemed to be quite a bit more quiet than further north! The scenery is much different from the “Pianura del Po” and the Apenin and I liked much the cypress! Over Montecatini and Casina di Terra we arrived in a single day at Sassa.

The sunrise of our last Trekking day! We departed just after six o’clock in the morning from Sassa. On the main road it was about 20 km to Castagneto but I decided to take a hiking path over the hills. Like so many times before the map and the road took different directions... Some 9 hours later we came out of the hills at Bibbona. From there it was “only” another 25 km to Castagneto.

But after all: the hills were really nice

As Castagneto is on a hill we saw it from far. And because Castagneto is on a hill the last part was short but hard and we arrived quite sweaty...!

At that time I guess I was too tired to realize that we really made it: all the way from Riet to Castagneto!

Almost anywhere I could shower her after the always hot days - before we started this Trekking she wasn’t very keen on being showered: but that definitely changed after some days! A few days later she stood right under the hose and turned around according to where she wished to be showered...

She relaxed in the garden with some excellent hay, a plum tree and a fig tree: she really likes fruits! Because it was so dry there was no grass but she seemed to enjoy her walks through the olive trees.

Back home again

For the way home we decided to travel by truck and trailer and my aunt came down to get us. Shyenne really likes to be on the road but she also enjoyed being back home.